Friday, April 3, 2015


Antigua, Guatemala

Last evening we were surprised that supper was not on the table at 7pm as expected. All was dark in the rooms around the patio. The house is an old hacienda, with all the rooms built around a large patio in the centre. There is a pretty garden. Our doors all open onto this area, as do the kitchen and dining room. The sitting area is outside on the patio. This is a true colonial-style home. The family owns a garage on the street and the home is behind the business. This appears to be the common style of the better homes in Guatemala.


As we went about our business, waiting for the family to return and begin preparations for dinner, we heard a loud drum beating a slow, regular rhythm.. It was dark outside. It took several minutes to realize that the sound was the signal that a procession was somewhere nearby. I ran out, through the garage and onto the street. At first all I could hear was the mournful sound of the drum. The street was engulfed in smoke and incense. Then I noticed many people of all ages milling about. The more I looked, the more I noticed things going on that were not part of the normal happenings.
Among the people on the street were men dressed in long, dark purple hooded cloaks. They seemed to have an official role. They are called Cucoruchos and they carry the large floats for a block at a time. The women who carry the virgin are usually dressed in white, but I saw carriers in civilian clothes as well. In front of the house a procession was slowly making its way down the street. The drummer was accompanied by other musicians, including a flute, trumpet and percussion instruments. At first they were silent. In front of them was a large wooden platform (float), carried on the shoulders by about ten people, men, women and children. The illuminated platform held the image of Christ carrying his cross. At the next street corner the platform bearers were relieved by another group and the parade stopped while the music continued, this time with another rhythm, and more instruments. People began singing and the procession then continued on its way to the next block. This went on for many blocks, each block (cuadra) allowing for a change of carriers.
As I watched the procession and listened to the solemn music I felt a wave of something mysterious fill my mind and body. Was it the slow drum beat? Could it be the smoke and incense that added a lugubrious tone to the spectacle? Was it the solemnity   and the significance of the procession? Or was it simply amazement at the devotion shown all the people for whom this week is the most important time of the year? I guess most likely a mixture of all of the above.


On Wednesday I left the home where we are living and walked through the streets that lead to the Central Plaza. Some were closed to cars in preparation for the procession that was expected later. In front of many homes and stores people were cleaning the street and beginning construction of an alfombra (carpet). As I turned the next corner, approaching the large arch that crosses the street, (previously used as a passageway from one side of the street to the other to allow the cloistered nuns to go from their cloister to the building across the street without being seen)  I could see many people gathered. There were large numbers of children milling about, all dressed in purple or white robes.  From a distance I heard the beat of the drum and then saw the large platform holding the figure of Christ, weaving its way down the street.

The platform approached and the drum beat continued, now accompanied by other musicians. Holding this heavy platform were about 24 boys, spread out on either side of the platform. Underneath were other float bearers, desperately trying to keep everything afloat. The platform wove down the street.  It was a site to see and I held my breath in amazement that it did not fall. At the next corner the team changed. But following down the main drag was another huge platform carrying the Virgin Mary, this time balancing on the shoulders of a large number of girls! I followed the procession for a block, until another group took over. It was fun to see all the different people following the procession. And behind it all were three men pushing the generator that is used to provide lighting to the floats that are illuminated all night.

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