Please excuse the cliché but we are in
Trulli country and everywhere you go on the country roads, you see these funny
little Smurf-like structures made of stone in the shape of a mound. They
date from centuries ago during feudal times when initially they served as
storage sheds and later were converted into homes by the local people.
Apparently they could be erected quickly because they require no mortar. So in
order not to pay property taxes to the king of Naples, the lord of the area of
Alberobello where there are still 1600 trulli, had his serfs dismantle their
trulli and then rebuild them again after the tax man had passed. This went on
until 1797 when the king sided with the serfs and declared an end to the feudal
government in the town.
As you visit this area, especially in the
countryside where there are clusters of trulli between the olive groves, you
half expect a little blue creature (Smurf) to pass by. In Alberobello, you
can visit Trulli and meander through narrow alleys where each trullo is now
privately owned, and many renovated.
We are in the province of Puglia, in a town
called Martina Franca, situated in the Valley of Itria. This is part of the
heel of the Italian boot. It is an area that produces some of the finest olive
oil in the world. We were treated to a visit of an olive oil company that has
been in the same family since 1889.As the present owner told us, in Martina
Franca, olive oil is more important thatnfood.
The other fascinating thing in the Itria
Valley of Puglia is the beautiful towns, made of white stone, and dating back
many centuries. The architecture of Martina Franca is baroque; the older
homes have ornate carvings over the doors and windows, and pretty iron
balconies, dripping with flowers.
This is slow travel at its best. We have
spent the week walking through the town, shopping in local shops to buy our
food for supper. People are very friendly and all say they know about Canada
and what a great country it is. The tourists that come here are mainly from the
continent. At this time of year we are almost alone. Our little apartment
(AirBnB) is fine. It is in a typical stone building on one of the back streets
of the historic area. Other than having to deal with little ants on the first
day, there have been no other problems. We enjoy not having to eat out every
day but rather to buy local produce and cook it ourselves. Last night I cooked
a delicious rabbit meal that was a recipe given to me by my Italian secretary
years ago. Delicious. The wine here is from primativo grapes…hardy and a deep
red, at only $2.99 Euros a bottle!
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